[Zo0of]

Basically, just bought the car knowing it had a bad frm. I checked all fuses which were really mismatched and messed up. Pulled the frm, cleaned it and threw it back in and worked flawlessly. Also, was low on trans fluid. That caused the automatic gm trans to shift up super early (6th gear at ~30mph)Drove it for 45 minutes yesterday, no issues other than a surge at idle. Now fast forward to today and the car won't start, I see the P shift indicator light flash on with a click every 5-7 seconds for a few minutes until the car assumes sleep mode. Car won't start, after a few clicks of the button it shows the press brake pedal light like my foots not on the brake. When scanned with my topdon scan tablet I get no communication with most modules. The codes I do get, from frm or the icm are issues communicating with the other modules. I believe the click is the relay in the junction box, but not sure what to do from here. I found that same relay in the car and tried to replace it but it did the same thing. Not sure if their both bad or both fine. Any advice helps I'm trying my best but a little outside of my depth here.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Zo0of

... Car won't start, after a few clicks of the button it shows the press brake pedal light like my foot's not on the brake. When scanned with my topdon scan tablet I get no communication with most modules. [If ignition (KL15) is NOT activated, the Instrument Cluster will NOT light & you have NO connectivity at OBD II Socket.] The codes I do get, from frm or the icm are issues communicating with the other modules...

I presume the Starter never Cranks/ turns the engine? Please read the following & perform the tests described, carefully recording the detailed results of each test. Post your results, along with your Last-7 Characters of VIN, & we will suggest NEXT Steps.

A. No Crank, 328i/xi with AT:
FIRST: using Multimeter, test Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood. If > 12.0V, proceed. If < 12.0V, charge battery, & leave charger attached during tests below.

"NO Crank" means Starter is NOT activated by CAS (Car Access System). However there are OTHER things CAS must activate, other then the Starter. The CAS Module Activates the Ignition Relay (KL15 or Terminal 15) & Instrument Panel lights up, the Accessory Relay (KL30G), & the Starter Solenoid (KL50). CAS also activates KLR (Radio, MRS & Brake Lights) when key is inserted.

TESTS:
1) When you put the Remote Key in the Insert Compartment, it should "click" into place, the Radio should play/light-up, & the Brake Lights should work when you press Brake Pedal. That means CAS KLR (Terminal R) is working.

2) When you press START button, WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch, the Instrument Panel should light-up. The Climate Control Panel should also light & other accessories such as Windows, Climate Control Panel should light-up, & Blower should function. That means that KL30G is working.

3) If you press the Brake Pedal, the Brake Lights should light, & you should be able to move the Shift Lever from Park to R, N, D, and the Gear Selected should appear in the LOWER Instrument Cluster display. That means that the 'Safety Switches' are working.

4) Listen CAREFULLY for any "CLICK" as you do the following, Ignition ON:
a) With Brake/Clutch Pedal pressed, press START button;
b) Describe the nature (single or multiple clicks) & source (under glovebox, below steering wheel, etc.)
c) If helper is available, raise hood & have person listen for "CLICK" below rear of intake manifold (from Starter Solenoid).

5) When testing is done or you want to remove Remote Key, press Key FORWARD, & you should hear/feel a "CLICK", at which time the key can be gently removed (NEVER Force it). The latches of the "Insert Compartment" can be easily broken if you simply pull the key out, WITHOUT pressing it forward first.

Those are partial tests of the "Safety Switches" for Brake application & P/N Shift selection to enable Starter Cranking.

If you had INPA, ISTA, or a Scan Tool that could display Live Data from the CAS Module (CAS Terminal Status), as well as INPUTS to the CAS Module from P/N gear selection & Brake Light Switch (as well as Clutch switch on MT), you could be more certain of CAS function, but the tests above will narrow the possible faults, with NO Scan Tool. Of course NO Scan Tool will work if Instrument Cluster won't light when START button pressed.

Try the tests, report back with your findings, & PROVIDE LAST-7 CHARACTERS of VIN.

We can then suggest NEXT Steps that you can do, with only a Multimeter.
George

[Zo0of]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I presume the Starter never Cranks/ turns the engine? Please read the following & perform the tests described, carefully recording the detailed results of each test. Post your results, along with your Last-7 Characters of VIN, & we will suggest NEXT Steps.

A. No Crank, 328i/xi with AT:
FIRST: using Multimeter, test Voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood. If > 12.0V, proceed. If < 12.0V, charge battery, & leave charger attached during tests below.

"NO Crank" means Starter is NOT activated by CAS (Car Access System). However there are OTHER things CAS must activate, other then the Starter. The CAS Module Activates the Ignition Relay (KL15 or Terminal 15) & Instrument Panel lights up, the Accessory Relay (KL30G), & the Starter Solenoid (KL50). CAS also activates KLR (Radio, MRS & Brake Lights) when key is inserted.

TESTS:
1) When you put the Remote Key in the Insert Compartment, it should "click" into place, the Radio should play/light-up, & the Brake Lights should work when you press Brake Pedal. That means CAS KLR (Terminal R) is working.

2) When you press START button, WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch, the Instrument Panel should light-up. The Climate Control Panel should also light & other accessories such as Windows, Climate Control Panel should light-up, & Blower should function. That means that KL30G is working

3) If you press the Brake Pedal, the Brake Lights should light, & you should be able to move the Shift Lever from Park to R, N, D, and the Gear Selected should appear in the LOWER Instrument Cluster display. That means that the 'Safety Switches' are working.

4) Listen CAREFULLY for any "CLICK" as you do the following, Ignition ON:
a) With Brake/Clutch Pedal pressed, press START button;
b) Describe the nature (single or multiple clicks) & source (under glovebox, below steering wheel, etc.)
c) If helper is available, raise hood & have person listen for "CLICK" below rear of intake manifold (from Starter Solenoid).

5) When testing is done or you want to remove Remote Key, press Key FORWARD, & you should hear/feel a "CLICK", at which time the key can be gently removed (NEVER Force it). The latches of the "Insert Compartment" can be easily broken if you simply pull the key out, WITHOUT pressing it forward first.

Those are partial tests of the "Safety Switches" for Brake application & P/N Shift selection to enable Starter Cranking.

If you had INPA, ISTA, or a Scan Tool that could display Live Data from the CAS Module (CAS Terminal Status), as well as INPUTS to the CAS Module from P/N gear selection & Brake Light Switch (as well as Clutch switch on MT), you could be more certain of CAS function, but the tests above will narrow the possible faults, with NO Scan Tool. Of course NO Scan Tool will work if Instrument Cluster won't light when START button pressed.

Try the tests, report back with your findings, & PROVIDE LAST-7 CHARACTERS of VIN.

We can then suggest NEXT Steps that you can do, with only a Multimeter.
George

The terminal under the hood tested at 12.4v, same as the terminals in the trunk. When key is clicked in, I get certain lights on the instrument panel. No radio, no hvac nothing but the instrument panel. When I push the start button more lights pop up on the instrument panel but again nothing other than that including brake lights. Yesterday when I was testing, my scan tool was not able to communicate with most of the systems. Ecm, vgt, most critical modules. Last seven of the vin is
P078050
Also i am certain the clicking i am hearing is from the junction box. The P shift indicator light flashes at the same time the click happens for a split second. Every 5 ish seconds while the car is "awake". Im pretty sure.

[Zo0of]

gbalthrop
Any help is appreciated when you are available.

[e91Owner]

Have you tried simply jumping your car to see if you have the same result? While batteries that are failing/failed often present a low voltage condition, having failed cells can just not produce the amperage required to run your vehicle.

Eliminate the simple causes first before shooting every module and wire in the car.

[Zo0of]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

Have you tried simply jumping your car to see if you have the same result? While batteries that are failing/failed often present a low voltage condition, having failed cells can just not produce the amperage required to run your vehicle.

Eliminate the simple causes first before shooting every module and wire in the car.

Battery voltage was consistent between post under hood and directly at the battery at 12.4. I am a mechanic at a local shop, I know most of what I'm doing just been looking for guidance.

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Zo0of

Battery voltage was consistent between post under hood and directly at the battery at 12.4. I am a mechanic at a local shop, I know most of what I'm doing just been looking for guidance.

The voltage being consistent doesn’t necessarily mean that it has the amperage to start a car, unless you’ve verified that.
Most people don’t have the equipment to test a vehicle’s CCA’s at home.

Simply jumping it will help start ruling things out.

You can also use an Amp clamp to determine the same thing while monitoring the voltage drop during starting, although jumping is just a lot easier.

[Zo0of]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

The voltage being consistent doesn’t necessarily mean that it has the amperage to start a car, unless you’ve verified that.
Most people don’t have the equipment to test a vehicle’s CCA’s at home.

Simply jumping it will help start ruling things out.

You can also use an Amp clamp to determine the same thing while monitoring the voltage drop during starting, although jumping is just a lot easier.

Put a jump starter on it today, no difference. i also tested for bad ground by attaching jumper cables from the engine to the frame. No difference.

The issue currently is no crank no start. when the key is inserted and no foot on the brake when you push start the instrument cluster lights up perfectly. however the car cycles through a state of asleep and awake. asleep for 5-7 seconds, then flickers into awake mode for half a second. When you press your foot on the brake, the car cycles through the different ignition states but will not start and eventually shows a "Press Brake". Light on the instrument cluster.

Doing research and a lot of reading i performed a hard reset on the battery, 20+ minutes. The car stopped the awake/asleep cycle thing, but still would not start. so i assumed it could be a bad cas module? but before i bite the bullet on getting it tested i started going through pt-can, starting with unplugging the abs module and the car started. then died about 20 seconds later. and wouldnt start again, then i plugged the abs module back in and the car started again but died again. Then started cycling through its awake and asleep state again. now i am here and asking for help again xD