[natchbimmer]

Hello, i have recently replaced my bmws TCM with a new remanufactured one (it came with the valve body that got replaced) but i need to program the TCM for it to work. My battery voltage with ignition ON is in between 12V-12.5. i know the reflash takes about 30mins or more. Do i need to buy a battery maintaner for this or can i just hook up another car to it and keep the power maintained like that? I just need to add my VIN to the new TCM so i can start running it again i have a 2011 328i with a GM6L45 transmission

[Tambohamilton]

I'd jump it to another can if you have that option. Better safe than sorry, and it'll be fine so long as the voltage is steady really. I built a power supply using server parts, and have used that to program the whole car, but it's surely cheaper and quicker to just jump to another car.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I'd jump it to another can if you have that option. Better safe than sorry, and it'll be fine so long as the voltage is steady really. I built a power supply using server parts, and have used that to program the whole car, but it's surely cheaper and quicker to just jump to another car.

Even better, I'd temporarily pull the battery from the other car (i.e. disconnect the battery cables), so there is no parasitic load on it from the donor car.

[lookalikehuuh]

Dont mess around with all this crap... you can literally get a battery charger for $20. A new module is going to cost you more that $20 when you run out of power and it kills the module.

https://www.amazon.com/YONHAN-Fully-...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Edit: Don't know about you, but for me in San Diego this is also same day delivery.

[natchbimmer]

lookalikehuuh Does it matter that it doesn’t put out 20A? I keep looking it up and it keeps saying i need 20Amps or more


EDIT: i am using AI for my info but from what i looked up i need something that can keep a steady 13V while i reflash

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by natchbimmer

lookalikehuuh Does it matter that it doesn’t put out 20A? I keep looking it up and it keeps saying i need 20Amps or more


EDIT: i am using AI for my info but from what i looked up i need something that can keep a steady 13V while i reflash

Nah, I use my 6am version of that charger all the time when im flashing my car with MHD to remove the maps for smog. Works just fine even when I had a weak battery.

That being said if you are really worried about that you can pick something up like this: https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Automati...610163&sr=8-23

[natchbimmer]

lookalikehuuh Alright, so if i just need to flash my vin into the tcm i don’t need much power right? I gotta check if it has the latest firmware first tho. it’s a remanufactured piece so it should be right?

I might just buy the highest amp battery maintaner i have locally and just do it, i can’t find any 20A where i’m from locally and i’m tryna get this done asap

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Nah, I use my 6am version of that charger all the time when im flashing my car with MHD to remove the maps for smog. Works just fine even when I had a weak battery.

That being said if you are really worried about that you can pick something up like this: https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Automati...610163&sr=8-23

Really?!?! And either one of those battery maintainers will work fine even if you are updating your I-level?

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Really?!?! And either one of those battery maintainers will work fine even if you are updating your I-level?

Yes, I literally was flashing back to my stock map yesterday because I have to do smog on my car this month. I had my 6amp charger on it and I never saw the voltage drop. Removing MHD and the tune took like 20-25min using my wireless adapter.

If my 6amper can do it, I assume the 10amp or 20amp I posted are also going to do the job just fine.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by natchbimmer

lookalikehuuh Alright, so if i just need to flash my vin into the tcm i don’t need much power right?...

ANYONE who claims to actually understand Flashing/Programming vs. Coding?
Please tell us specifically (1) what software (WinKFP, NCS, etc.) is needed to enter correct VIN for EGS (Transmission Control Module) on a GM6, & (2) how long it takes.
Also, is there any reason that CANNOT be done with engine running, in Park, at idle?
George

[natchbimmer]

gbalthrop Just to clarify I’m a complete beginner to all this i have NEVER used these programs until yesterday, but from all the research and forums i’ve read on, WinKFP is needed to flash my vin into a TCM that has another VIN written on it so i can actually use the shifter and finally be able to move the car, it’s locked. I’ve been trying to do so but it keeps pulling up an error that says that it can’t find my ZB number for my specific part, i’m now installing previous version of the E89 SP Datens to see if any of these older versions have that zb number. But if you have any knowledge or if you think that i’m doing something wrong please let me know because i’m a complete beginner at this. Thanks

[natchbimmer]

gbalthrop Also from what i looked up this needs to be done with the engine turned completely off and ignition turned on

[gbalthrop]

I don't pretend to know. I use INPA & ISTA for diagnostics, but have NEVER flashed or coded. Only use NCS to see what the existing coding is. That's why I asked for input from others who actually have DONE what you need to do. Unfortunately, there's a LOT of Misinformation out there.
George

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Yes, I literally was flashing back to my stock map yesterday because I have to do smog on my car this month. I had my 6amp charger on it and I never saw the voltage drop. Removing MHD and the tune took like 20-25min using my wireless adapter.

If my 6amper can do it, I assume the 10amp or 20amp I posted are also going to do the job just fine.

What about you cable? I use D+CAN cable for basic use but I need to upgrade to the COM cable. Which one do you use? Do you have a link to that as well?

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

What about you cable? I use D+CAN cable for basic use but I need to upgrade to the COM cable. Which one do you use? Do you have a link to that as well?

I use a cable that I bought from ebay a long time ago. I think a lot of people now just go with the bimmergeeks cables for guaranteed compatability.

I have no idea about programing the transmissiion though, I've never done that directly. There are dudes on here in the coding subforum that can code your car remotely using your laptop. Maybe that is the way to go for a beginner.

[John 070]

My largest battery maintainer is 5A. If it were me, I wouldn't fool around and I would use my power supply (it is 55A, good enough, as it's a RV power supply).

remember v=ir

Think about it, what would a car dealer use, in the shop, in the showroom, to power vehicles being serviced, or where people are getting in and out in the showroom turning things on and off.

Cheap devices have the voltage spike when the amps go up, i.e. why you have these

https://a.co/d/hisKRIJ

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by John 070

My largest battery maintainer is 5A. If it were me, I wouldn't fool around and I would use my power supply (it is 55A, good enough, as it's a RV power supply).

remember v=ir

Think about it, what would a car dealer use, in the shop, in the showroom, to power vehicles being serviced, or where people are getting in and out in the showroom turning things on and off.

Cheap devices have the voltage spike when the amps go up, i.e. why you have these

https://a.co/d/hisKRIJ

Is it possible that the one you got years ago was 55 amps and cost much less when you got it back then. This one that you send a link for is a 100 amp for $411. Just too much for me. Is there a lower cost solution? Also I have a E90 a proper Com cable looks to be quite costly as well. There are a lot of lower cost version that are for the newer chassis. Am I understanding this right?

[e91Owner]

If $50 is breaking the bank for a proper cable, you bought the wrong car 😂

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

If $50 is breaking the bank for a proper cable, you bought the wrong car 😂

Oh no $50 sounds good. It was my understanding that on the E90 chassis there is no cheap com cable that all the cheaper Com cables are for the newer chassis cars. Can you provide a link for the one you’re talking about?

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Oh no $50 sounds good. It was my understanding that on the E90 chassis there is no cheap com cable that all the cheaper Com cables are for the newer chassis cars. Can you provide a link for the one you’re talking about?

This would be the current version of what many people use.

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...dition-k-dcan1

[Salzamani]

Originally Posted by e91Owner

This would be the current version of what many people use.

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/product-...dition-k-dcan1

I have that BimmerGeeks cable already. I want to be able to use ISTA-P without any risks. BMW Doctor and many experts say you have to have a proper power supply(50+Amps) and a iCom cable. I want to be able to update my modules and maybe even update my I-level. At the very least spend enough time to fix the modules that are down. I can probably get my hand on a proper power supply but the iCom cable designed to work with E90 cars is there an affordable clone that is known to function well?

[e91Owner]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

I have that BimmerGeeks cable already. I want to be able to use ISTA-P without any risks. BMW Doctor and many experts say you have to have a proper power supply(50+Amps) and a iCom cable. I want to be able to update my modules and maybe even update my I-level. At the very least spend enough time to fix the modules that are down. I can probably get my hand on a proper power supply but the iCom cable designed to work with E90 cars is there an affordable clone that is known to function well?

Personally I think you’re over your head, so I’ll let someone else continue the conversation. Good luck.