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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Radiator cracked - can I drive it or does it fail catastrophically?



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      12-29-2025, 12:19 PM   #1
sabino56
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Radiator cracked - can I drive it or does it fail catastrophically?

2006 E90 - 190k miles - original raditator
I found a weeping at crack at the neck. Sounds like that is very common and I guess I'm lucky it's lasted this long.
I also found the upper rad hose weeping at the rubber hose to plastic connector to the radiator. Disappointing as I replaced it (Rein) only two years ago.

Two questions:
- any experience on how the radiator may fail? I'm thinking it could fail catastrophically and I'd get stuck driving it - but no experience. I kinda need the car until the new radiator comes but I don't want to chance it if it experience is they fail completely quickly after a crack forms.

2nd - From reading posts, it's kinda split between Nissens and Mahle/Behr which are both OE according to FCPEuro (if you can believe them). The Mahle/Behr is made in China according to the site so don't want to do that.
I've never used or actually heard of Nissen's but thinking I'll try it.

Update: - I just read the reviews on Nissens on FCPEuro and they are not good. ALot of complaints about leaking, problems with little plugs you have to swap. Anyone with knowledge on this issue would also be appreciated!

Any other sellers or brands anyone has recent good/bad experience.
I know this is a moving target. Manufacturers change locations, contractors all the time so just looking for any timely advice.

Thanks

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Last edited by sabino56; 12-29-2025 at 12:43 PM..
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      12-29-2025, 12:31 PM   #2
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190K miles is impressive for the original radiator!

Personally, I wouldn’t be too afraid to drive it around town for now (keeping coolant on hand just in case). I had a small leak in our GL’s radiator that we drove carefully for a couple of weeks before getting the chance to replace it. I would probably be more worried about the upper radiator hose. I have seen those catastrophically fail (although that is usually due to improper installation - not being fully seated on the radiator).

Rein has been super disappointing for me on my e90. I think I will stick to genuine plumbing from now on.

I also dislike the Mahle Behr option. I have it on my car currently, but I’m expecting to have to replace it any time. I can’t speak for Nissens. I’m more likely to go genuine for the radiator next time, too.

Last edited by bmwbusky; 12-29-2025 at 12:40 PM..
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      12-29-2025, 12:49 PM   #3
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I'm still on my original too so I don't have any personal experience but from what I've seen on the forum, the genuine is really the best option. Nissens and Mahle/Behr both tend to leak after a year or two.

CSF also makes one that is all aluminum instead of the plastic tanks. It's more expensive than the other options but cheaper than genuine. I've heard good things about that one.

Also agree about the genuine hoses - I used to use Rein but the quality has for sure gone down the last couple years.

If I were you I'd get the upper hose, expansion tank vent hose, and lower hose and do all of it at once.
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      12-29-2025, 12:52 PM   #4
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DO NOT BUY THE MAHLE/BEHR....

I have gone thru 5 Mahle/Behr units and they all fail the exact same way.... they will leak where the aluminum core and plastic end cap meet on the driver side every single time.

I HIGHLY recommend buying the Genuine radiator and be done for the next 190K miles. Otherwise you WILL spend hudreds of dollars and countless hours replacing radiators every year moving forward. The only issue with the all aluminum CSF unit is that it overcools the engine, which might not be a bad thing since you live in AZ, but people struggle to get the engine up to temp in the winter, and it will trigger thermostat codes, even when the thermostat is working just fine.

Something of note, the OE radiator is actually made by Modine, but I have not been able to find one sold as the OE piece. FCPEuro is WRONG WRONG WRONG about the Mahle/Behr unit being OE, it is definitely NOt the OE radiator.
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      12-29-2025, 01:09 PM   #5
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Chiming in to share another personal experience and also recommend a Genuine BMW radiator and hoses.

My original 335i radiator lasted 16 years and 160K miles. I replaced it with a CSF radiator (with plastic end caps not their all aluminum model) which is now leaking two years later, very slow weeping from the end cap seams (no cracks) so I have just been driving it and adding a few ounces of coolant every few months.

I've also had a Gates upper radiator hose fail, leaking at the band clamp that's installed from the factory at first, then the nipple snapped off. That was replaced with a Genuine part and now has no issues.

Unfortunately when I was replacing my water pump I had a time constraint (days off from work and a narrow window of time to work) and couldn't get genuine parts in time, so it's a mix of a Mahle thermostat, Dayco lower radiator hose, Rein U-hose between thermostat and water pump, and a URO Premium Mickey mouse flange and hose to thermostat. Not my first choice given the difficulty of doing this job on an N54 in a E93 chassis, but knock on wood it's holding up. If I had the time I'd have gotten genuine parts for everything as there's a noticeable difference in quality, that genuine upper radiator hose that I have looks and feels better than any aftermarket part I've used.
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      12-29-2025, 01:24 PM   #6
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I'm setting a jb weld endurance record on a much greater plastic leak than you're experiencing (haven't added much since spring)! Got the CSF that lowrydr310 describes standing by.
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      12-29-2025, 02:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloverdale View Post
I'm setting a jb weld endurance record on a much greater plastic leak than you're experiencing (haven't added much since spring)! Got the CSF that lowrydr310 describes standing by.
I was wondering about dremeling out a little groove and using JBWeld. I guess there is little harm in trying.
Did you just put it over the top or try to open the crack a little?

If it works it'd buy me some time. Looking around - no one (dealers in Tucson or Phx) has the BMW radiator in stock. It's only a few days but mainly I'd like to wait until it warms up in the garage.

As far as sources - Dealers all say $526 for the BMW radiator and supposedly made in Germany.
AutoNation owns the BMW of Tucson dealership. They have a "Online Parts" ordering capability and they show the same PN radiator for $381 with MSRP of $526. Reasonable shipping around $40.

Has anyone ordered from AutoNation BMW parts?
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      12-29-2025, 02:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
Update: - I just read the reviews on Nissens on FCPEuro and they are not good. ALot of complaints about leaking, problems with little plugs you have to swap. Anyone with knowledge on this issue would also be appreciated!
I have the Nissens radiator but not long enough to comment on longevity. The issues with the plugs are due to user error - the included instructions could be more clear and if IIRC, the correct plugs are not intuitive. The plugs are also fragile and I don't really think you can remove them without damage, so you have to get it right the first time.

If you can afford the small premium for a BMW radiator, that would be the best choice. The only issue I recall seeing was that they were not well packaged for shipping, but that may no longer be the case. I'm also not sure if the plugs are included.
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      12-29-2025, 02:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
I was wondering about dremeling out a little groove and using JBWeld. I guess there is little harm in trying.
Did you just put it over the top or try to open the crack a little?

If it works it'd buy me some time. Looking around - no one (dealers in Tucson or Phx) has the BMW radiator in stock. It's only a few days but mainly I'd like to wait until it warms up in the garage.

As far as sources - Dealers all say $526 for the BMW radiator and supposedly made in Germany.
AutoNation owns the BMW of Tucson dealership. They have a "Online Parts" ordering capability and they show the same PN radiator for $381 with MSRP of $526. Reasonable shipping around $40.

Has anyone ordered from AutoNation BMW parts?
I wonder if FCP Euro's Mesa location has a will call where you can pick up parts. Not sure how far that is from you, but overall FCPEuro has a good reputation, with a few exceptions here and there, but overall I have had great luck with them so far. Benefit being that you get a lifetime warranty over the BMW stealerships 2 year warranty.

Is this for your 2006 330i? also is it a manual or auto?
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      12-29-2025, 02:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh View Post
Is this for your 2006 330i? also is it a manual or auto?
Yes, 2006 E90 330i, N52. It's a manual.

I would prefer to buy from FCPEuro has I've had good experience generally. I'll look into whether there is a walk-in possibility.
AutoHausAz used to have walk-in - but they stopped it as I understand.

Last edited by sabino56; 12-29-2025 at 04:01 PM..
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      12-29-2025, 04:50 PM   #11
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Sand the surfaces and allow to dry on a cold radiator before JBWelding. Should buy you some time while waiting for the genuine BMW radiator.

Tischer BMW has it. Both kinds (for either ULEV or SULEV) are $366.55.

IMO, Tischer FTW. Although you get lifetime replacement for about $465 from FCP.

https://www.getbmwparts.com/v-2006-b...and-components



Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
I was wondering about dremeling out a little groove and using JBWeld. I guess there is little harm in trying.
Did you just put it over the top or try to open the crack a little?

If it works it'd buy me some time. Looking around - no one (dealers in Tucson or Phx) has the BMW radiator in stock. It's only a few days but mainly I'd like to wait until it warms up in the garage.

As far as sources - Dealers all say $526 for the BMW radiator and supposedly made in Germany.

AutoNation owns the BMW of Tucson dealership. They have a "Online Parts" ordering capability and they show the same PN radiator for $381 with MSRP of $526. Reasonable shipping around $40.

Has anyone ordered from AutoNation BMW parts?
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      12-29-2025, 05:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
Tischer BMW has it. Both kinds (for either ULEV or SULEV) are $366.55.
I almost just bought a spare when I saw that!

I think that's a mistake on their listing. Those part numbers correspond to manual and automatic versions of the ULEV radiator, afaict. 17117537292 is the actual number for the SULEV (N51) verison.
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      12-29-2025, 05:21 PM   #13
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Yeah, best to let Tischer use the VIN number to look up just in case.

The 17117537292 for N51 is $768.67, but that includes the special sensor (which I think is just a plain pressure transducer because of the 3 pins).

For N51 I think the plastic tank CSF is the only aftermarket option because of the sensor port. But for the creative, one might be able to convert the all-aluminum N52 CSF radiator to N51 use.
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      12-29-2025, 06:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainbearing View Post
Yeah, best to let Tischer use the VIN number to look up just in case.
Thanks. Interestingly, the Tischer/GetBMWParts appears to be the same interface/web presentation as the AutoNation BMW parts portal for the Tucson BMW online. https://www.autonationparts.com/v-20...and-components

The payment, VIN verification, etc. is identical. I don't know if that means same underlying company or two companies using the same web interface.

The GetBMW parts however has a $267 shipping charge vs a $40 for the AutoNation page. Delivery is ~Jan 10 however.


Dealer is $150 more for same after online shipping costs. The dealer is supposedly 1-2 days delivery to the dealer. So it comes down to how long I want to wait and how bad I want to see the actual parts I'm buying before I walk out. I would really like to be sure it's something made in Germany or Hungary, etc. vs China. I have bought rotors from the dealer once and found they were made in Mexico so can't be sure about country of origin anymore.

I scuffed up the crack and put a layer of JBWeld on it. I'll see how that does tomorrow and decide if I want something quicker or can wait.

I believe the radiator for my 2006/E90/N52/manual is 17117559273. That's what a dealer said for my VIN plus ditto RealOEM and for the online parts sites.

I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions.
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      12-29-2025, 06:35 PM   #15
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Drove with a similar leak for weeks locally around town before replacing with CSF aluminum radiator. Knock on wood so far good.

Weeping leaks aren't bad as long as you aren't taking them on a long trip.
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      12-29-2025, 07:00 PM   #16
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I used JB weld and aluminum foil to keep it all together on the cracks around the top large hose of my radiator when that went. Stopped the leaks quite well, and it probably would have held for longer than I needed it to.

I was anxious to get it replaced, so just went with the Nissens unit that was at my local autoparts store. It's been totally fine, no issues for two years.
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      12-29-2025, 07:50 PM   #17
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Genuine is the way to go, although luckily I have had only positive experiences with Nissens and Rein. I keep an eye on them expecting problems though, and when I need to replace it will be with BMW parts.
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      12-30-2025, 04:52 PM   #18
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It does look like the same web interface. Yeah Tischer needs to look into their website. I saw that ridiculous (freight) shipping charge, with a note that more shipping options are available on checkout. That will drive potential customers away for sure.

Then I tried again, it is $50.36 from Maryland to Phoenix, AZ.

Well you will receive it sooner from AutoNation anyway as it is closer, likely from the same BMW distribution chain but different warehouses.



Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
The GetBMW parts however has a $267 shipping charge vs a $40 for the AutoNation page. Delivery is ~Jan 10 however.
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      12-30-2025, 11:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
Thanks. Interestingly, the Tischer/GetBMWParts appears to be the same interface/web presentation as the AutoNation BMW parts portal for the Tucson BMW online. https://www.autonationparts.com/v-20...and-components

The payment, VIN verification, etc. is identical. I don't know if that means same underlying company or two companies using the same web interface.

The GetBMW parts however has a $267 shipping charge vs a $40 for the AutoNation page. Delivery is ~Jan 10 however.


Dealer is $150 more for same after online shipping costs. The dealer is supposedly 1-2 days delivery to the dealer. So it comes down to how long I want to wait and how bad I want to see the actual parts I'm buying before I walk out. I would really like to be sure it's something made in Germany or Hungary, etc. vs China. I have bought rotors from the dealer once and found they were made in Mexico so can't be sure about country of origin anymore.

I scuffed up the crack and put a layer of JBWeld on it. I'll see how that does tomorrow and decide if I want something quicker or can wait.

I believe the radiator for my 2006/E90/N52/manual is 17117559273. That's what a dealer said for my VIN plus ditto RealOEM and for the online parts sites.

I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions.
Keep applying the JB Weld going forward as the expansion and contraction will impact the repair.
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      01-02-2026, 04:23 PM   #20
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I just jumped online and saw the genuine is about $190 more than a Mahle.

I think I would do genuine. I just did a Lexus LS radiator myself, and I went with OE. The reason is I remember reading Denso for the vehicle is aftermarket. Lots on the forum went with Denso aftermarket "tow package" and it was stupid cheap like $90? 2 years later they leaked at the same place the original did. My car is 20 years old and it just leaked--I did not drive btw once I was aware.

Today it's $112 or $123. OE is $432 list and somehow I got it from a Scottsdale AZ dealer for 40% off, free shipping, and no tax? I was dumbfounded but I paid $260.

Again %-wise $190 is a lot more, but I'd pay it myself to know it's same as what came with the vehicle. Now if I weren't keeping the car then I would try to save... my .02

edit: The genuine OE Lexus part in 2025 was made in China, and the one that came out of the vehicle from 9/05 is Japan. I'm ok with it, prefer genuine for this type of part...

Last edited by John 070; 01-02-2026 at 04:35 PM..
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      01-17-2026, 11:10 AM   #21
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FWIW - I decided to buy BMW/genuine. Going to dealer was ~$130 more than thru Tischner/Autonation and ~$40 more than same on FCPEuro. I ended up going to local dealer as I've had problems with other online orders getting damaged via shipping and had some concerns on banging around the radiator. (Seems like UPS is hiring the equivalent of Uber drivers to drop stuff off in my area and they just drop and run)
I also wanted it quickly and wanted to see the thing before I bought it to make sure it wasn't made in China.

In any event, the BMW radiator was made in Germany. It wasn't packaged that great. Just some foam wrapped around the ends and put in a box. But the box hadn't been abused and radiator looked good.

I also epoxied the crack and it's lasted 3 weeks so far. But I'm not going to trust it in the summer here, driving to/from Phoenix, etc. so will replace when weather is nice.
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      01-17-2026, 12:48 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabino56 View Post
FWIW - I decided to buy BMW/genuine. Going to dealer was ~$130 more than thru Tischner/Autonation and ~$40 more than same on FCPEuro. I ended up going to local dealer as I've had problems with other online orders getting damaged via shipping and had some concerns on banging around the radiator. (Seems like UPS is hiring the equivalent of Uber drivers to drop stuff off in my area and they just drop and run)
I also wanted it quickly and wanted to see the thing before I bought it to make sure it wasn't made in China.

In any event, the BMW radiator was made in Germany. It wasn't packaged that great. Just some foam wrapped around the ends and put in a box. But the box hadn't been abused and radiator looked good.

I also epoxied the crack and it's lasted 3 weeks so far. But I'm not going to trust it in the summer here, driving to/from Phoenix, etc. so will replace when weather is nice.
I think you made a good choice on sourcing it. Sometimes you just pay the extra and know what you're getting...
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