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How tight should tension strut bushings be?
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| 11-18-2022, 01:05 PM | #1 |
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How tight should tension strut bushings be?
I've had some steering wheel shake under braking lately which has felt like typical tensions struts. I had the same symptom at about 80k and replaced them with TRW which solved it. Those are now worn out at 150k. I replaced them with a set of BMW value line parts and it reduced the shaking but it's not completely gone.
Nothing else in the suspension has play as far as I can tell. I can't tell if it might be caused by the rotors or if the new tension struts are defective. Before installing them I put the bolt through the bushing and wiggled it to compare it to the old ones. From what I remember when I've done these in the past I was basically unable to move them by hand with the bolt, but the new ones wiggled a decent amount. They actually didn't seem much different than the ones I was replacing. Does anyone know if the bushings should move by hand like that? It's been a while since I've replaced them so I can't remember exactly but I've done this job on multiple cars, probably about 5 sets of them total, and I don't think I remember them being so loose. |
| 11-18-2022, 03:30 PM | #2 |
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No the bushings should not wiggle by hand. They should be stuck on there like a rock. Try a set of TRW/Lemforder, that is what I would use for suspension parts.
Where did you get those control arms? FCP? Have them replace those arms. What is BMW Value Line anyway? BMW makes some expensive junk but value lines? I did not know such things exist . LOL. |
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| 11-18-2022, 03:48 PM | #3 |
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Thanks for the confirmation. The bushing itself is tight within the arm but I was able to wiggle the center portion around by hand which didn't seem right.
I did get them from FCP, I'll replace them with Lemforder. They're genuine BMW arms but they came in the Value Line box - as far as I know Value Line is a new-ish thing BMW is doing to package parts together for common repairs (I think they also do an oil change kit and a brake kit, etc.). So these came with a new nut and bolt under a single part number. I'm not sure if they use the same control arms as the original parts or if they're now outsourcing to a cheaper one for the kit. As far as I can tell the original part number for the separate arms are superseded and the only number I can even find for genuine parts is now this kit. |
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| 11-18-2022, 07:37 PM | #4 |
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Value Line is, as you said, just a way BMW packages parts that come with replacement hardware and sometimes other items needed for the service.
Realoem lists many parts that way now. So, they are genuine BMW items. It does sounds strange that they would have play out of the box, so yes try Lemforder. |
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| 11-18-2022, 07:47 PM | #5 |
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The center bushing definitely should not remove around. Failed parts would do that. I wonder if those were returned items.
Maybe the problem was FCP's return system. People have reported getting what looked like "old" parts. I think the problem was FCP did not vet the returns carefully. Anyway, if those are the new BMW El-Cheapo line, then IMO there should not be any difference than the original parts. Either those were defective (for whatever reason), or just try Lemforder. Lemforder is owned by TRW, which is where BMW buys some of those suspension parts from anyway. |
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| 03-13-2026, 09:54 PM | #6 |
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Bumping this old thread of mine because now 10k later these control arms are worn out again.
Was there a bad batch of parts in 2022 or something? I did everything right, tightened the bushings at ride height, etc. but they're definitely worn out now. I can swap them out at FCP but I'm curious because the first pair I got were obviously bad right out of the box, and the replacements looked okay at the time but they've only lasted 10k miles. |
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| 03-14-2026, 08:43 AM | #7 |
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What exactly are your symptoms? Are they leaking fluid too, or just play?
Just seems crazy early.
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| 03-14-2026, 11:39 AM | #8 |
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I'm getting shaking in the steering wheel again when braking, and I could see some movement at the bushing with a pry bar. I didn't check it carefully enough yet to see if they're leaking but I will before I order the replacements
I can't think of anything else that could be causing it...like I said I torqued them to spec with a new nut and bolt, at ride height. The struts are a bit worn but they're not blown out, the other control arm is good, alignment is good. No accidents. |
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| 03-16-2026, 01:09 PM | #9 |
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So, because of price increases it would cost me about $220 to warranty these at FCP. I'm thinking about just doing the M3 arms, which are only gonna be about $180.
I can't find definitively if you need an alignment after doing the M3 tension struts...I saw that the other front control arms change the geometry and you absolutely need an alignment, but the tension starts do not. Anyone know if that's correct? |
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| 03-16-2026, 03:44 PM | #11 |
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Thanks, yeah that's a good idea. It was three years ago so I don't remember for sure but I think I did check the rotors with a dial indicator at the time before replacing the control arms. But I'll pull the wheels off and check it again to make sure.
It definitely feels more like the control arms and the bushings do seem loose with the pry bar. I just checked my E60 which has a brand new front suspension and those are super tight, no movement at all. |
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| 03-16-2026, 07:40 PM | #12 | |
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I don’t know that pad deposits would show with a dial indicator, but maybe? |
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