[enrita]

Originally Posted by FirstBMWLA

I haven't logged anything in quite a while. When i first started running ethanol though i did some logging. Fuel trims were in low 20% range I think.

Well relog....

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by enrita

Well relog....

Kind of losing me here though. I can only relog with the car running right lol

[enrita]

Ok good luck

[FirstBMWLA]

Found this:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=18

Sounds similar to what I'm seeing.

Any idea of where these underhood fuses he references are? I didn't see any in the ecu box.

[FirstBMWLA]

Home now and looking at it again.
Tried removing tune. Didn't change anything.

Measured battery voltage at 11.98V
Cannot seem to get codes to clear. I hit clear and when I scan again they are still there. Not sure if this is to do with low battery voltage or not.
Not sure where to go from here.

[kiteboy]

Verify your PVC system!

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by kiteboy

Verify your PVC system!

If I only knew exactly what to verify lol

[kiteboy]

this horse

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by kiteboy

this horse

Ok, pulled engine cover. It's attached fine. Should I be trying to remove it to check for anything?

[kiteboy]

yes necessary to remove it

[09BMW335i]

this happened to me a little while ago. i had to reset all my sensors and i reloaded the last Hex i was using and reset all after it was done.
My problem went away.

[Miller335]

Battery should read between 12.4-12.6 volts.
What is the voltage with it started?

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by Miller335

Battery should read between 12.4-12.6 volts.
What is the voltage with it started?

With it cranked and the stumbling idle i measured 14.35V.
Took the battery to autozone for testing. Tester said it needed to be charged and retested to determine. Left it with them for a while to charge and test it again.

As far as checking the PCV I haven't yet figured out how to remove that connector. Seems to be a PITA

[FirstBMWLA]

So autozone says battery is bad. Guy said it actually tested worse after trying to charge it. Tested 3 times and was worse each subsequent test.

Just inside the 2yr warranty on the battery so I guess for now ill be replacing the battery and seeing what happens after that.

[kiteboy]

Originally Posted by FirstBMWLA

With it cranked and the stumbling idle i measured 14.35V.
Took the battery to autozone for testing. Tester said it needed to be charged and retested to determine. Left it with them for a while to charge and test it again.

As far as checking the PCV I haven't yet figured out how to remove that connector. Seems to be a PITA

Necessary to press it on the clip and extract horse, it´s not obvious first time
Sory for my poor english

[buster84]

Originally Posted by FirstBMWLA

So autozone says battery is bad. Guy said it actually tested worse after trying to charge it. Tested 3 times and was worse each subsequent test.

Just inside the 2yr warranty on the battery so I guess for now ill be replacing the battery and seeing what happens after that.

Autozone battery?? I thought our cars batteries had to be coded into the ecu?

BTW batteries from Autozone, Kragen, Pepboys ect... are remanufactured batteries. They do not sell new batteries (maybe online?). I had a friend who worked for them and they said that the stores never sell them new. They are also told not to inform the customer that they are remanufactured unless asked. I always had so many issues with batteries from Kragen in my honda civic, but then i bought a new one at the dealer and never had an issue after that. Sometimes you get lucky on the battery, sometimes its a stubborn one.

Helpfully your car problems are just the battery, but it would seem unlikely since your alternator would keep the car running even if you removed the battery.

[Miller335]

Originally Posted by buster84

Helpfully your car problems are just the battery, but it would seem unlikely since your alternator would keep the car running even if you removed the battery.

That isn't 100% true for newer cars.

A failing battery can cause a disturbance in the curcuit loop which can freak out a newer style system.

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by buster84

Autozone battery?? I thought our cars batteries had to be coded into the ecu?

BTW batteries from Autozone, Kragen, Pepboys ect... are remanufactured batteries. They do not sell new batteries (maybe online?). I had a friend who worked for them and they said that the stores never sell them new. They are also told not to inform the customer that they are remanufactured unless asked. I always had so many issues with batteries from Kragen in my honda civic, but then i bought a new one at the dealer and never had an issue after that. Sometimes you get lucky on the battery, sometimes its a stubborn one.

Helpfully your car problems are just the battery, but it would seem unlikely since your alternator would keep the car running even if you removed the battery.

Maybe you misunderstood. The battery is not autozone brand. It's the OEM BMW battery I bought Nov 2011. I'm just inside the 2yr warranty window on it. I just had autozone test it for me.

The times I have been able to clear the codes the car will run fine. But it seems with the battery in the state it's in now maybe the communication with the DME isn't up to par because the codes just will not clear.
From reading threads on flashing I've seen people say 2007 models are very sensitive to voltage thresholds for communication. So I'm hoping with the new battery I can get the codes cleared and that the new one will actually hold a charge and not be giving me low battery messages everyday.

Maybe I will find new problems after the new battery but I hope not. A few people mentioned in this thread they had similar issues with a low battery.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by FirstBMWLA

Maybe you misunderstood. The battery is not autozone brand. It's the OEM BMW battery I bought Nov 2011. I'm just inside the 2yr warranty window on it. I just had autozone test it for me.

The times I have been able to clear the codes the car will run fine. But it seems with the battery in the state it's in now maybe the communication with the DME isn't up to par because the codes just will not clear.
From reading threads on flashing I've seen people say 2007 models are very sensitive to voltage thresholds for communication. So I'm hoping with the new battery I can get the codes cleared and that the new one will actually hold a charge and not be giving me low battery messages everyday.

Maybe I will find new problems after the new battery but I hope not. A few people mentioned in this thread they had similar issues with a low battery.

Ohh that makes sense. Hopefully bmw warranties the battery out even with your car not present. I'm not sure the rules on that.

Can't you clear all the codes by leaving the battery unplugged all night? Thats what i used to do on my old car, but since these new cars have more technology in them I'm not sure? Maybe someone can chime in on that?

You can also buy a battery jumper starter to see if the extra juice would allow it to run. Something like this. Just buy it from a store like amazon, auto zone, walmart, or costco and return it after if you don't want to keep it.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-...rds=jump+start

[FirstBMWLA]

Well.... Took battery to BMW. They said it's good just needs charging.
So I bought a 10A charger. Charged battery up.

Still codes 2CFB and 2D09 will not clear. They will appear as if cleared sometimes in the Bav Tech software but if you cycle ignition power and scan again they still remain. Have never seen codes that would not clear.

[FirstBMWLA]

Anyone familiar with the Bav Tech logging channels?
I see a "Throttle position sensor" and a "Nominal throttle Position sensor"
I logged both of those with just ignition on and they agree.
I'm thinking I need to log them with it running crazy. I'm suspecting they are not in agreement.

Am I correct in thinking those 2 channels should be 1 in the same? If they are not with it running I'm guessing I need a new throttle body.

I noticed some of the freeze frame information mentioned throttle position actual vs throttle position nominal as if they were in disagreement.

Could throttle body be bad? How can I verify that without wasting money on a new one?

[FirstBMWLA]

Finally got PCV valve removed. Check valve appears to be working properly.
Kind of at end of rope I guess.
Not sure what else to try besides diving in on a new throttle body.