[coyo5050]

2011 335i e90/n55 cranks but will not start.

Had a similar issue a couple years ago and it turned out to be a corroded cable from the battery. That is not what is causing the problem this time, the cable is good. Old thread for reference: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1827173

Everything was running fine and then I got a bunch of DSC issues so pulled off the steering wheel and did the ".02 cent fix" posted to try and resolve that. Put everything back together and car wouldnt start. I am guessing coincidence? Problem started about a year ago but life gets in the way and I havent touched the car until this past weekend when I took the steering wheel apart again to check the connections since I had a bunch of airbag codes. Cleared codes and airbag stuff seems ok but took a screenshot of ISTA of codes still showing. I know having it sit that long probably didnt help.

Battery is good, checked both cable/connections on the distributor in the engine and voltage is good. Looks like FRM just went bad but I will worry about that after I get the car started (unless that has some impact?)

Attached is that screenshot from ISTA. Ran procedure for 28CD and adaptation didnt seem to work, should have grabbed a screen shot.

What should I be doing next?

Thank you

[coyo5050]

Bump

[Aode06]

You never fixed your original problem.1. The entire small cable is trashed internally throughout the entire length( from the top of the battery computer box all the way to the front) (bolts on the top metal terminal behind the DME,10mm nut) under the hood.
2.The engine ground strap is toasted, it's located underneath driver side bolted to the engine mount 2, 13mm nuts. Don't let looks fool you,it will crumble in your hand when removed.
You can have a car audio shop run a cheap amp wire to the top and replace your ground strap yourself or left them do it and you will be back on the road,electrical issues,fuel,misfires etc all gone under $300

Or pay BMW $4,000 to drop your exhaust and subframe to do the work.
The GIANT 0 GUAGE red wire should be ok, he is a beast 💪

[coyo5050]

First issue was definitely fixed. I drove it a couple months until I had an issue with the ground strap which I replaced and it worked great for nearly a year longer. I did also connect some cables from engine to body just to double check the ground.

[coyo5050]

Can anyone tell me about the error codes?

[coyo5050]

It has been a while since I could get back to this. I have tested battery, I have tested both big red cables up to the engine and they both have 12.5 at the 2 points at engine same as battery. I have tested the 3 relays in the white box and they are getting 12.5. I have run a jumper cable from engine to ground just to be sure ground is good. Disconnected the IBS. Replaced the box on top of the battery. Picked up used JBE, programmed it and swapped it out and made no difference. After all of that, still the same error codes.

FRM is bad and there is a recall for it. Cant do anything about it until car runs but cant see how that would cause no start issue.

Tonight I locked the car manually and then unlocked with the fob and opened door and I dont hear any noises which is making me wonder about the LPFP.

Could a bad LPFP cause those codes? Was thinking about spraying started fluid in the throttle as a quick test?

I thought I would see something more specific to the fuel pump than the codes I am seeing. I'm struggling to find more electrical related things to test.