[gtrinker]

There is some backstory I'll add below, but car won't start. Discovered that while there is 12 volts going to the center terminal on the distribution junction, there is no power at the jump port or the terminal going to the starter. I can buy a replacement, but it looks Iike a nightmare to change and if there where was short inside I'd expect a fuse to blow. Does anyone know if there are any electronics inside the part?

2010 328i, manual, bought used 117 miles.

Backstory: Car sat for 3 weeks with last week being 10 degrees (was away) . Prior week it rained hard. Went to start it and it didn't start, jumped it, it started. Next day dead. Was getting 14 volts while running. Went to replace the battery and the bottom of the battery was in a block of ice (need to clear the drain plugs) . Replaced battery, but didn't start the car (all lights on). Started a couple days later and it was dead. Battery charger indicted it was sulfated. Assumed it was a bad battery. Installed warranty replacement and car didn't start. That led us to the junction terminals under the hood by dumb luck.

[gtrinker]

Never mind, the battery terminal in the trunk was corroded due to water ingress. I ordered new cables.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by gtrinker

Never mind, the battery terminal in the trunk was corroded due to water ingress. I ordered new cables.

As you probably know:
"Transfer Points" in front of battery base will rust/short out if water is allowed to accumulate in battery well. Need to identify/ correct CAUSE of water ingress to prevent recurrence. Leak at R Tail Light seal is perhaps most common cause, or Roof Drain issues.

When Temp > Freezing, "condensate" on inside of windshield/ windows is a tell-tale sign of water in battery well, or other water leak into interior.
George

[Reggie6ixx]

I know I’m late but I had this same problem and replaced the battery cables and know my car is in limp mode could it be my battery?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Reggie6ixx

I know I’m late but I had this same problem and replaced the battery cables and know my car is in limp mode could it be my battery?

If you had NO voltage at Jumpstart Terminal under hood, your Starter would NOT Crank/Turn the engine. If you repaired Transfer Points or B+ Cabling between Battery in boot & J/S Terminal under hood, your Starter should NOW Crank.

Questions:
1) Does engine now start when you press START button with foot on brake/clutch?

2) If engine starts, what warning lights appear on Instrument Cluster after engine start?

3) Make/Model of Scan Tool/ Diagnostic Software available, & Fault Codes Read in any Modules that Tool can connect to? If NONE, see below.

4) If you have a "!" in the lower instrument cluster display, next to Gear Selected, you have "CC-ID" Code(s) which you can read WITHOUT any Scan Tool, using the "Check Control" Procedure, found in your Owner's Manual. If you have NO Owner's Manual, you can download a FREE pdf duplicate here:
https://www.bmwusa.com/owners-manuals.html

5) What are CC-ID Codes read using "Check Control" procedure per (4) above?

6) Do you have a simple Multimeter? ~ $10 at Amazon or HFT.

7) Other DETAILS of performance issues: what is NOT functioning as it should, & WHEN?

With answers to those questions we can help,
George

[Reggie6ixx]

The car starts now but I’m getting a CEL and a ccid 29 the I’m now getting power to the jump terminal my only problems are the P1056 and P105B which I can’t figure out for the life of me

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Reggie6ixx

The car starts now but I’m getting a CEL and a ccid 29 the I’m now getting power to the jump terminal my only problems are the P1056 and P105B which I can’t figure out for the life of me

Actually the Two VVT/Valvetronic Codes you are getting are 2A3F & 2A77. The VVT Actuator is NOT able to operate as a throttle to open & close the Intake Valve Lift. That causes the VVT system to shut down, and the engine reverts to very limited throttle provided by the Throttle Valve. That causes the Half-Engine Light & VERY limited throttle response (Limp Mode).

I will attach to NEXT Post ISTA ScreenPrints, showing your VVT circuit, component locations, such as K6319a VVT Relay & fuse F07, which power the Valvetronic system, & Connector Views which offer clues on HOW to test. If you would like specific Testing instructions, using a cheap (~ $10 at Amazon or HFT) Multimeter, please ask. You have several other DME Fault Codes which are NOT relevant to your "Limp Mode" issue. Let's solve that Limp issue 1st.

Here are the "BMW Fault Code Lookup Definitions for the two VVT codes & the Link to Fault Information for each; your DME Variant is MSV80:
2A3F | DME: Valvetronic, actuator motor: power supply | msv80 | Engine electronics
https://bmwfault.codes/DiagView?id=M...E4NTIyOTIwNQ==

2A77 | DME: Control module, internal fault: Valvetronic output stage | msv80 | Engine electronics
https://bmwfault.codes/DiagView?id=M...E4NjQ1NDcwNQ==

I would start with testing fuse F07, & then testing the K6319a VVT Relay, both of which are located in the E-Box under the hood, at right (Passenger Side) Firewall. If you need procedure for accessing & Opening the E-box, please ask.

Please let us know what you find, or if any questions.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post.
George