[IllSic_Design]

Awesome build thread and congrats on figuring out the wiring and getting it started. Very cool build, lookiing forward to more info/pics.

[type-dRew]

Such an awesome project. I'm also glad its a 4 door. Well done so far

[Garageaholic]

Thanks for the comments, Guys!

[Garageaholic]

Some more updates - I have run into some setbacks working on eliminating CAS, and the DME is surely in Limp Mode. I can tell because the turbos whine up, but the throttle body is not opening up nearly enough to allow positive pressure into the intake manifold therby allowing air to bypass into the blowoff valves and close them up.

Quick video of updates here:

Yup, I have Pressure! Blew a cheap clamp - Just replaced that quick


The blowoff valves open up back into the intake once the vacuum reaches 7 in-hg. So during normal driving, the intake has constant vacuum (up to 30 in-hg) and the blow off valves are open allowing all turbo to flow back into the intake. Interesting way it works! So when you have boost pressure, the intake manifold starts building postitive pressure, thereby closing the blowoff valves allowing all of the air to go into the intake. Once you let off the gas, the vacuum in the intake opens the BOV (blow off valves) and relieves any residual pressure.


Working on the Air conditioning system. I need ed to scavenge an E36 pressure sensor for the high side to protect the compressor. So needed to cut one off the stock E36 line and weld it to the custom high pressure line I made.


Working on some wiring and flashing with Kassel, They have managed to remote flash the DME for me, so we have been running a few permutations of that with no successful elimination of CAS.....for now. We WILL get this.




Concurrently, I am working on an alternate solution option of a CAN Emulator to emulate all of the CAN signals that prevents the N54 from being in Limp Mode. More info on that later!

So this is the car as it sits today!


Latest video can be found here, hope you enjoy!

[Evil///M]

Amazing! I wish I had this build!!

[Garageaholic]

Some more updates this week. I worked strictly on the Air Conditioning. Tried, but failed to get it running. I replaced the Expansion Valve, rewelded some tubing, replaced O-Rings, evacuated, and filled. It seems like I need a new compressor, so I ordered a new (used) one and hope that may fix why my the pressure on the high and low side is about the same, regardless of whether the compressor is kicked on or not. So having said that, not many pics, but I do have an updated video of my trials and tribulations.

Holding Vacuum on both hi and lo sides


Some new O-Rings on my custom Aluminum tubings


Reset the airbag codes while I'm at it!

[Garageaholic]

More updates guys! Yes, progress is slowing down, but that's for good reason. 90% of the swap is easy - Installation, mounting, welding, placement, peripherals. Sure, that isn't that hard. Heck, people do demo of the donor car in a day and think they're half way done with the project.

The real kicker is the fine tune adjustments to ensure that the swap ACTUALLY WORKS. That means, engine codes, passing emissions, removing rattles, shakes, vibrations, idiot lights, and getting everything to "play" together effectively. That's what REALLY takes the time.

So without any further adue (Spelling?), I provide updated status. I was wiring up the X20 port for the basic signals required for the chassis to interact with the engine. This includes
Fuel Pump
Switched Power
Start Wire
Oil Pressure
Coolant Temp wires
A/C Compressor Signal

So I cleaned things up a bit




Then I started the engine so many times I lost count if I were to count by hundreds. I am now going through all of the error codes and after the car runs, I find that the engine gets into limp mode. Remember that for now, I have a CAS/DME setup, meaning that the DME requires CAS to start. Wiring between the 2 are shown below for the E92 335i (2010).

First Power: Pins 1, 8, 19, 21, 34
Second, Grounds: Pins 12, 25
Third, the 3 signal pins to X60001
-Pin 30 (WS) goes to X60001 Pin 15 (PA_BUS)
-Pin 28 (SW/GN) goes to X60001 Pin 2 (S_START)
-Pin 7 (GN/WS) goes to X60001 22 (15_ZRS)

Starter: Pin 22 (thick)

But I still get error codes. Tons of comm codes. But none of them really cause an issue with either OBD or engine performance. There is one however that causes limp mode, and that is a power class mismatch, code 2FA4. Here are the error codes I get after running the engine for at least 60 seconds.



i realized that the car runs flawlessly for the first 45-60 seconds, until this 2FA4 code comes up. This video below sums up my experience and how the car works after I key-cycle.

What I discovered after idling the engine was that after 60 seconds that 2FA4 code comes up, If I reset the code in real time, the car gets out of limp mode until the code comes back, predictably 60 seconds later. So me and my buddy decided to partner up and invent an arduino mega controlled CANShield board that automatically sends out the 6F1 PT_CAN ArbID that resets the engine DTC's every aaaaaaah, 20 seconds or so? This effectively prevents the car from ever going into limp mode.

Rest assured that this is not the final solution. but rather a band aid for me to drive the car and work out any other drivability issues.

The final solution will be Kassel Performance flashed DME. They have been working diligently with us to come up with a solution for MSD81 and remove EWS4 and CAS3 from the system. This has proven to be more complicated and more of a challenge than originally anticipated.

So here is the automatic code resetting arduino tool:


It basically taps into the PT_CAN bus. There is a terminating 120 ohm resistor already at the OBD Port and at the EKPS, so you may put anything else into the PT_CAN 500kbps line and we decided to inject into the backbone with this resetter tool. We have a discrete ground signal hooked up to a rocker switch so that we can turn off the auto code resetting function at any time if we suspect a real code and problem with the engine.

So I moved on to get coolant temp in the dash and decided to replace the existing 2 wire sensor and use the 4 wire coolant temp sensor. 2 wires go to the DME as originally intended and 2 wires go to the cluster.



Kassel Performance makes a harness that adapts the new 4 wire switch and makes it plug and play. Very convenient, But my setup was slightly different because I snaked the 2 wires in the engine harness (GE and GN) for cluster sense.



Finally, I moved on to the muffler. Removed the stock E36 M3 muffler and tried replacing with straight pipes, but it was too loud, so we decided to go with 2.5" single in/out resonators, 2x of them. Worked out amazingly as you can hopefully watch in the latest video.





Installed the dual resonators in place of the big heavy muffler:


Dual 3" Tips to be trimmed and painted black:




And finally finally, I got the engine bay sorted out and completed the air intake scheme. hope you like.

Hey guys, if you were ever interested, I am also nearing the end of my E30 S62 "life after people" restoration series. It's a 10 video series of how I resurrected my own build from years back and got it back to current standard by making some standard and not-so standard replacements on the car! Thanks!
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...TzU2no8EvXGz8x

[Garageaholic]

That's right guys, I finished the swap, from start to finish, it's documented here for future generations of E36 engine swappers. So to backtrack a bit, let's see what I needed to do just to get from the previous post to where I am today.

I had to change the clutch, but it was my own stupid fault. 2 reasons.
1. First, when I initially replaced the clutch disc itself, it would have been completely fine had I reset the clutch pressure plate. Those little springs, apparently they actually do something!








You can see a quick YT Live Video I made that showed how to reset your pressure plate manually in the event that you require it.

2. Second was the way the clutch actually "felt". While I replaced the throwout bearing, I realized that I installed it "not incorrectly", but not ideal. Installing it in a position that allowed it to maintain a different clutch friction position allowed a much more engaging ride. Some comparisons of the "US" lower version and the "euro" higher version. You can see the comparison here.





Then I needed to install the DMTL. I wired it up to Power, Heater, Valve, Motor. Those 4 wires needed to be connected to the X60002 connector, through the X60531 connector.

Here is a comparison of the E36 M3 (Late model) compared to E92 DMTL.


Some installation pictures:







Some Wiring: You can see the purple X60531 connector for this 2010 E92 335xi.




And wouldn't you know it, test drive revealed that this thing is a BLAST to drive! Take a look at some final pictures and my finale video I released on YT! Thanks for all your support on this project guys. You have most definitely helped me out so much with your advice and help!









And finally, the finale video. Hope you enjoy!!

[marconi118]

why don't you ditch the catted DPs?

[Garageaholic]

Originally Posted by marconi118

why don't you ditch the catted DPs?

It has certainly been an upgrade I have discussed internally. Maybe we'll retrofit it one day. For now, we wanted to make this behave completely stock (except tune) and pass inspection in NY.

[fmorelli]

N54 swap is 90% an electronics/coding problem. I just read through this thread and what's the "hear a miracle occurs" part? There is an Arduino hack while awaiting a Kassel solution. Then all of a sudden project is done and great. Nothing is every said about how the electronics problem was actually solved. That's the heart of the whole swap? What gives?

Filippo

[hassmaschine]

It was solved through software. We found a few additional subroutines and settings to totally eliminate the need of the CAS.

[APR-M4!]

Hopefully this post can be revived.

I am currently doing the same swap and have some questions. The car is drivable but throws some codes and the water pump runs after shutdown for about 20 minutes ( may just be a bad pump ).

Did the OP connect the battery monitoring system?

Did the OP connect a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator? I have seen a conversion where the port on the FPR had a mesh cloth on it and not connected to a vacuum source. He was using the EKPS, I am not.

Thanks.

Anthony

[Spyro235]

Originally Posted by Spyro235

This is awesome. So much custom Fab that I wouldnt be able to do (yet?!) though. I dream of an n54 swap into my e46, becasue I think the n54 would make a fantastic drifting motor. Maybe one day, I would prefer to build a fun street car, like an n54 swapped e46 wagon.

Who would've thought, this thread is revived! I'm starting my n54 swapped wagon project this weekend. Have my donor coupe, haev my wagon, and it's time!
Happy to bump this thread. I plan on using Kassel and have talked to them at length about my swap.